Everything
I’d seen since arriving galvanised then… came upon me in a wave of disbelief…
as if I could’ve started speaking in tongues. The whole of America was
crawling, teeming with life… life gone wrong, convictions of right and wrong,
everybody with their own personal struggles and myths. Riding out of Europe and
into China might well have been something, but growing up in Europe and then
finding yourself taking in America is a concept far harder to get your head
around.
There was religion… religion
everywhere… I remember riding past the churches, each one with a small
billboard out front, a different slogan for different days, sermons and moods…‘God gave his only son to save us – isn’t
that awesome?’ Or else it went stricter… ‘The Bible is not a menu – You do not choose only the things you like –
Pornography and Homosexuality are sins’. They were not just empty words
either, people believed,
they believed with fervour. The locals spent Saturday mornings waving Christian
placards, working for money during the week and for God on the weekend. They
were distributing leaflets outside anonymous buildings with parking spaces on
the road marked ‘doctor’. The placards were consistent… ‘Abortion is murder’, ‘Every
child is a child of God’… always easier to love a foetus than an actual
human. If not religion it was politics, death penalty… that toilet door in
Washington, a rubber flyswatter and a picture of a squashed fly upon it. In the
centre ran the question, ‘What do we do
with flies?’, to the right the words, ‘We
squash ’em and we kill ’em’, and to the left, ‘We don’t catch ’em and release ’em’.
Down the main street of a town I
would walk… past the bar, diner, library full of books, grocer with crate of
apples, pet shop with flea-collars and warmers for artificial pooches suspended
in the window, past the post office, past the gun store. The gun store… a
window with row upon row of firearms lined up, guns the size of children,
handguns stacked on shelves like boxes of eggs, rifles to kill from half a mile
away, guns that fire 200 bullets a minute. The posters on the walls too… ‘There is no such thing as a bad gun, only a
bad person’… or else the banner above the doorway, ‘The Second Amendment protects all the other amendments’… and this
was the Pacific northwest, liberal heartland of the United States. I thought of
maps I’d seen, maps showing election results, the blue of Democrats down each
seaboard… where they said trade and travel had forced internationalism, a more
liberal mindset that sandwiched the Republican red of all the states between.
That’s what I’d heard, but it’s only inside America that you discover all
liberals might well be Democrats, but not all Democrats are liberals.
The one about the grocery store,
that’s a good one: a small hamlet in the USA, European walks into a grocery
store. There’s a gathering of houses and one store among the forest – non-incorporated – a settlement where
the woman who owns the store says becoming a formal village or town just brings
taxes and bureaucracy, of which the people want neither and already have too
much. She owns the store, a Democrat-voting woman in the liberal heartland of
the United States. She tells me that a month ago there was a break-in, in the
middle of the night a local boy named Cody had got in through the front door.
She’d fired a shot in the air, sprang downstairs with her handgun when she
heard the glass shatter.
‘He’s just a child… ran when he
heard me coming. Sad story, really… father cleared out, left Cody and his
sister. The mother kept his sister… put Cody up for adoption. Must feel awful…’
head shakes. ‘Rejected by your own mother. Cody’s gone from foster home to
foster home, never had a family, always in trouble. Now he’s going to jail.’ She
pauses, thoughtful. ‘Best place for him, really… a short, sharp shock in the
penitentiary with some real criminals is just what he needs.’